2012年6月14日星期四

One-Stop Shopping in Milan

Excelsior Milano, Galleria Del Corso 4 Wholesale Jerseys, 011-39-02-7630-7301.



London has Selfridges, Harvey Nicks and Liberty; New York has Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys and Saks; and Paris has Le Bon Marché, Les Galeries Lafayette and Au Printemps. Milan, on the other hand, has been conspicuously lacking in luxury department stores. But that all changed earlier this month Wholesale Jerseys, with the opening earlier of Excelsior Wholesale Jerseys, a multilevel shopping destination with a fashion sense that runs the gamut from Dries Van Noten to Balmain (the renowned local boutique owner Antonia Giacinti is a consultant), a trio of restaurants from the local celebrity chef Davide Oldani and departments stocked with everything from retro-fabulous meat slicers to flower arrangements by the edgy florist Numero 9. The former cinema has been reimagined by the architect Jean Nouvel as an ode to the history of film: floors are laid out as parapet balconies, and wraparound L.E.D. screens show a continuous stream of film stills. Even the sales clerks dress the part. The women who work in the cosmetics and fragrance hall on the first floor wear stripy Breton tops, cropped black trousers and ankle-strap heels and the guys who sell men’s clothes on the second floor sport tartan shirts, chinos and solid ties. Despite the inauspicious location, right next to a low-end mall, and the coy facade (Nouvel hid the entrance behind a giant louvered blind, and there are no window displays), we foresee a flurry of fashion-week pilgrimages.

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Hot Off the Press - Kiosk Paper

The first issue, edited by Ming Lin — who initiated the project, and who recently completed a graduate program in anthropology and art history at McGill University — is out now. It contains a mushroom spore; a printing how-to from artist and amateur mycologist Jason Rosenberg; Justin Erik Halldór Smith’s article on the lexical mishaps of multilingual product packaging; a piece by the art collective Slavs and Tatars; and an interview with the color specialist Donald Kaufman.

Kiosk Paper is included with any order placed at kioskkiosk.com; or pick up a free copy at Kiosk, 95 Spring Street, New York.

But Kiosk has never been about mere consumerism. Like any good curator, Grifo make money online, who has worked as an interior designer and prop stylist, strives to tell the stories behind the products — to talk about people and their culture through the things that they make. To this end, she writes a brief, impressionistic (and often very funny) essay about every item that Kiosk carries: it’s a key to understanding the significance that each object holds make money online, whether a wooden paperweight made by a 90-year-old Japanese craftsman who won’t reveal his methods or a red Portuguese sugar bowl manufactured by one of the last melamine factories in Europe.

From left: an issue of the Kiosk Paper; inside Kiosk's store on Spring Street.From left: an issue of Kiosk Paper; inside Kiosk’s store on Spring Street.

Now, with the help of friends and collaborators, the store is applying this approach to Kiosk Paper, a quarterly that aims to explore the world through words and ideas, not just objects. Each issue will be put together by a different editor and, according to Grifo, will offer “perspectives on everyday life.” Subjects, she says, are to include “eating, music, living, nature, collecting, craft, material culture, color and poetry.” Otherwise known as everything. Kiosk Paper comes as an oversize, two-sided broadsheet — a format that grew out of the logo-adorned newsprint the store uses to wrap its products. “We realized that this packaging could actually do and say something, not only look pretty,” Grifo says. For design influences they looked to that famed object of the 1960s counterculture “The Whole Earth Catalog” and the massively wordy label of Dr. Bronner’s all-purpose soap. The two “have a very straightforward and intuitive approach to presenting information make money online,” Grifo says. “Both the density and the randomness [of our content] encourage readers to draw their own conclusions.” And the same could be said for Kiosk Paper.

Alisa Grifo and Marco ter Haar Romeny started Kiosk with an especially infectious idea: to highlight functional design goods from around the world, focusing on one country at a time. Their store, perched one floor above SoHo’s Spring Street, opened in 2005, and its concept quickly caught on. They now curate small international pop-ups, including one in the Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum’s famed gift shop.

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Dress Code - Prabal Gurung

Six months ago, Mr. Gurung started working with a graphic designer in London on a digital flower print. “I knew I wanted to incorporate themes of Nobuyoshi Araki’s art, specifically from a series called ‘Sensual Flowers,’” says the designer about the bold recurring print seen in this georgette-and-tulle A-line dress. “Like Araki’s work, everything is very pretty from afar, but up close there is something subversive about it.” The dress’s transparency, for one, hints at this. Mr. Gurung cites the saturated mixed-floral print dress as an incredibly laborious two-months affair requiring numerous revisions, in large part due to the fragile tulle cutouts and delicate two-seam construction. “I went back and forth, back and forth. First a sketch, then the paper pattern, draping, then another paper pattern when that didn’t work, the muslin, a fitting … and another muslin … another fitting. Hopefully this is the last of it NCAA JERSEYS,” says Mr. Gurung, who sent it down the runway on the model Caroline Brasch Nielsen earlier today, at last.

In this Fashion Week exclusive NCAA JERSEYS, T documents the making of a collection-defining dress.

A bouquet of lilies arrived at Prabal Gurung’s CFDA Incubator studio in the middle of the final fitting for his spring collection NCAA JERSEYS, and a hush fell over the crowd. “I’m telling you this freaky stuff happens all the time to me,” says Mr. Gurung holding the flowers, a gift from the model Joan Smalls, beside his spring collection’s opening dress. Indeed, the two had just enough in common — color, motif, scale — to make you wonder. Of even greater coincidence: that very dress had originally been set aside for Ms. Smalls to wear in the show (she ended up having a scheduling conflict). What are the chances?

Complete Coverage: Spring 2012 Fashion Week


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2012年6月13日星期三

Just One Look - Céline Pre-Fall Collection

Complete Coverage: Pre-Fall Collections

For pre-fall scarpe nike, Phoebe Philo looked to the ’50s London underground for inspiration — think houndstooth checks and two-toned winklepickers set on a slight heel. And pieces like a wool duffel coat bonded with iridescent PVC scarpe nike, slim color-blocked pants, and the new variation on the luggage bag are true to her mission to keep churning out modern wardrobe essentials. For those ready to make a true commitment, we love how the old-fashioned concept of matchy-matchy takes a turn for the avant-garde in this tartan-on-tartan look.

The Pre-Fall Collections scarpe nike, being shown in New York over the next several weeks, arrive in stores in May to fill the gap between bikinis and furs.

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A Model Moment - Giovanna Battaglia, Part II

Surrounded by glittering names and fashions, Giovanna Battaglia still managed to shine last night at the Carla Amorim boutique opening party São Paulo Soccer Jerseys, Brazil. In the second of her three dispatches about her outfit choices, Battaglia explains why it pays to “Sparkle Soccer Jerseys, Neely, sparkle!”: “The party was super glamorous and I wanted to be the jewel in the crown, which is why I wore a white Soccer Jerseys, lace Dolce & Gabbana dress with lots of black and white diamond pieces from Amorim. To keep my feet glittering all night, I slipped into some Giuseppe Zanotti heels. No point being shy.”

Related: A Model Moment Part I

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Yves Saint Laurent- New Vintage III

Photograph by Cameron Krone. Styling by Vanessa Traina. Hair by Enrico Mariotti at See Management. Makeup by Beau Nelson at The Wall Group. Model: Alyssah Ali, IMG Models.Yves Saint Laurent Jacket, $2,250, Shirt oach outlets stores, $1,490, Bustier, $850, and Pants, $850. Available at Yves Saint Laurent New York, call (212) 980-2970.


YSL’s New Vintage III is available in limited, numbered editions at YSL flagship boutiques in Paris, London and New York.

Pilati adds, “New Vintage is meant to be part of a process oach outlets stores, a general attempt to give a sensibility and an education to our public so that it can act consciously toward its environment.” Today, progressive cultural shifts in consumption and sensibility seem more modern than ever.

Only YSL can make vintage as good as new. After the success of not one but two environmentally feel-good capsule collections, New Vintage, initiated by YSL’s creative director, Stefano Pilati oach outlets stores, and Julie Gilhart, is having another go. New Vintage III’s moxie is quite simple: reclaim, recycle and sustain. “The collection is materially comprised of garments made from recycled fabric and from existing patterns instead of new ones, to start a dialogue with the market using known codes and a common language that are reassuring and familiar,” says Pilati about the 180 pieces that will be available this week. Metallic wide leg trousers, velvet tuxedo suiting jackets and leopard-print wrap dresses with a hint of disco pay a refreshing nod to Saint Laurent’s iconic 1970s designs. You’ll have a second chance to finally own that missed ready-to-wear piece, and no doubt appreciate the brand’s intelligent use and reuse of its existing resources.

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Jed Philwin, the court-appointed lawyer

Judge: If you endorse a certain wine, what happens to that wine? Do people buy it?

Once outside, however, merriment gave way to a sobering surprise. “I heard the squawk of a police siren, followed by a stern, amplified directive to move to the sidewalk,” Oldman said. The cops had spotted a bit of liquid in the bottom of the bottle. “My friends — good friends that they are — scattered like confetti.” Oldman tried in vain to explain that this was only sediment: “It’s what is left after you decant a mature bottle!” But the police issued him a court summons anyway.

Judge: That’s a good picture of you.

On a recent evening at Colicchio & Sons, in the Meatpacking District, the wine writer Mark Oldman attended an engagement dinner during which several bottles of 1970 Chateau Palmer were drunk. “I still remember the plums-and-truffle perfume and enduringly silky, savory finish freewebmakemoneyonline.weebly.com/url,” Oldman said. He was so enamored, in fact, that before leaving, he snuck out an empty bottle with him as a souvenir. (Oenophiles, Oldman noted, refer to empties as “dead soldiers.”)

Wine writer Mark Oldman with the Bordeaux in question.Natalie HayesWine writer Mark Oldman with the Bordeaux in question.

Court Officer: Mark Oldman, Docket ending 9818, open alcohol container.

Oldman: Thank you, Judge.

Oldman: You can have it. [At this point, Oldman said, the court-assigned lawyer standing beside him warned  that such an offer could be construed as bribing the judge.]

Judge: No, thank you. So the publisher pays you to go around drinking wine?

Judge: Have you ever seen Night Train Express?

This weekend, Oldman will appear in two sold-out events at the New York City Wine & Food Festival. Neither of them is about how to get out of an open container violation. Nevertheless freewebmakemoneyonline.weebly.com/url, the writer was kind enough to share with T the following court transcript which recorded his defense before a somewhat incredulous New York City judge.

Oldman: Wine writer. I was taking the bottle as a souvenir. It was a 40-year-old bottle. I have it downstairs. They wouldn’t let me bring it up.

Oldman: Thankfully not. I have books published in French, though, which is funny. An American publishing books in French is like –

Judge: How did you get to be an expert in drinking wine? I’m looking for another career. I’m going to retire.

Oldman: Yes, it is. And writing about it.

Oldman: It’s quality, not quantity. It’s not about drinking as much as you can.

Oldman: A little of each.

Oldman: It was an empty bottle of 40-year-old Bordeaux I was taking as a souvenir. I’m a wine writer. The officer thought there was something in the bottle. He started writing up the ticket. I’m a well-known wine writer.

Oldman: Exactly.

Judge: Who pays you to drink wine? I know of a lot guys that would like that job.

Judge: What was this? [referring to the bottle in question.]

Judge: You’re not French?

Oldman: I love it. Does a body good.

Jed Philwin, the court-appointed lawyer: Move to dismiss, facially insufficient.

Judge: Before or after you drink it?

Judge: What’s your record in one day of consuming wine?

Judge: If you are going to buy wine and stick it in a warehouse, what kind of wine would you buy?

Judge: A well-known what?

Oldman: Special stuff, you mean? Like the kind that my bottle was, old Bordeaux. Only two percent of the world’s wine gets better with age. People think any wine improves, but only two percent does, so red Bordeaux is a good bet.

Oldman: My publisher. They do a lot of books. [Oldman then offers the judge to look at one of his books. The bailiff brings it to him freewebmakemoneyonline.weebly.com/url, and the judge pages through it approvingly.]

Oldman: Well, you know, practice makes perfect, and some people have a nose for it. I have a good size nose. You’ve got to smell and taste different things.

Judge: There’s your book back, for the record. And I’ll dismiss the case.

Judge: Let me get this straight. Your job is to go around drinking wine all day?

Oldman: Absolutely, they do. They trust my judgment.

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